Hong Kong: City of Pollution

by Richard L. Weaver II, Ph.D.    

It is 4:10 p.m., and our ship will be leaving soon for Taiwan.  We are anchored just beyond the entrance to Victoria Harbour away from the sea lane, and if I were to write about Hong Kong based on what I can see around the ship from here, this essay would consist of nothing — nothing but a gray mist.  We are completely shrouded in pollution.  No day (we’ve had two) has been clear, and those visiting Victoria Peak (about 1,817.6 feet above sea level and the highest point within Hong Kong) — one of the most popular tourist attractions in Hong Kong — said they were disappointed because little could be seen except buildings in the immediate vicinity.
    
The BBC reported on March 22, 2010, the day after we were there: “Air pollution levels in Hong Kong have reached a record high, prompting government warnings to people to avoid going out.”  Hong Kong blamed it on pollution coming south from China.
    
Hong Kong is a big city with a population of 7 million people, and a land area of 428 square miles.  The pollution was the worst we’ve experienced in any city we have yet visited; however, it will be discussed again in the essay on Beijing.
    
Many people love Hong Kong for the shopping alone.  It is a shopper’s paradise.  We hate shopping; thus, if we could not find other redeeming qualities, we would, very likely, hate (barely tolerate) Hong Kong.  Fortunately, we found redeeming qualities on our second day.
    
We made the choice to “do Hong Kong on our own” before we left home.  First, we read the excursion choices and found none interesting.  Second, we looked at how far things were from where the ship would be docked and realized we could conveniently reach destinations of interest.  Third, and from both docking positions (Hong Kong and Kowloon), Princess offered free shuttles (a tender and a bus) into the places where we wanted to go.  The solution appeared simple: do it on our own.
    
On the first day, the shuttle bus dropped us off at a high-end mall, and we walked as quickly as possible from there to the Star Ferry where we traveled for free (a senior-citizen perk) to Hong Kong island.  We sought information and walked a long, beautiful, covered walkway to the Exchange Center bus terminal where we first discovered we needed change, not bills, and we ran upstairs and got some.  The cost was 4.70 HKD per person — about 75-cents each to travel to Aberdeen.
    
We found a place at the very front of the 2nd deck of the bus, and thus had both an exiting and full view of everything on this half-hour trip.  We knew we were in Aberdeen only because the driver turned off the engine, and everyone got off the bus.  That’s a serious hint!  We walked from there to the nearest boulevard overpass (a bridge for walkers) where we could get to the water.
    
As we got close to the water, ladies who motored san pans on the water, begged for our attention and a ride to the floating restaurants and places where people live on their boats.  As we walked, a couple of these little san pans would follow us.  We chose not to take a ride, but walked farther along the river on a nicely manicured sidewalk.
    
We followed our route in return, stopped at a clean public toilet, received more change from one of the friendly store owners along the way, then took Bus #70 back to the Exchange Center sitting atop the bus once again.  It took less than half hour.
    
Once back to the dock area, we walked around.  Our street of demarcation (to help us remember where we were) was Pettinger Street — nearby there were a couple of alleyway markets we wanted to walk.  Every time we were there the area was full of pedestrians.  On the second day in the area, I bought my Hong Kong tee-shirt for 50 HKD (about $3.50 U.S.).
    
It was, indeed, our second day in Hong Kong that made our stay outstanding.  After an evening of moving the ship from a Kowloon dock to a spot outside Victoria Harbour, the trip from the ship back to the dock now necessitated a 40-minute tender ride.  Once again, we walked from the pier into central Hong Kong.  It is an easily navigated area, and we were able to follow both roadside and elevated sidewalks to where the Victoria Peak tram begins.  Just to the left of the tram station is the entrance to Hong Kong Park and Aviary — a serene oasis spectacularly surrounded by towering skyscrapers. (The Aviary was opened in 1992.)
    
Upon entering the park, there is a white staircase where water is flowing down into a pond near where we were standing.  You can walk up into the park next to the flowing water, and when you reach the top of the staircase, there are two nicely manicured small lakes filled with turtles and fish and surrounded by lush greenery and walking paths.
    
We were in Hong Kong Park on Sunday so families and romantic partners wandered the pathways.  Hong Kong Park is a totally manufactured area — nothing is natural or was preserved in the creation of this area carved into the contours of the hillside.
    
Just beyond the pond on the right are two picturesque waterfalls that you can walk behind as you follow the path to the head (top) of the falls.
    
Upon reaching one high point we encountered the Tai Chi Garden.  Entering the garden through the attractive gate, we discovered a tranquil, peaceful, quiet garden where one woman was practicing Tai Chi.  In the garden there is a hallway marked by tall white columns, a waste-high pool of water that is perfectly still but flows over the sides of marble walls, and a tall cylindrical tower with a winding staircase to the top.  
    
On one wall of this Tai Chi Court is a plaque dedicated to the memory of all those who assisted (putting their own lives at risk) in fighting the SARS (Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome) epidemic in March, 2003.
    
Close to the Tai Chi Court is the Aviary where there are over 600 different kinds of birds.  The walkway is long and winds midway between the ground and enclosed fencing above, and overlooks a flowing stream, waterfall, a small lake, and lush tropical foliage broken by the constant movement of birds with brilliant plumage.  Feeders suspended near the walkway bring the birds to eye level.
    
With the park experience, Hong Kong suddenly and dramatically became interesting and unique.  The omnipresent pollution, normally worn like a tight body shroud, seemed to lift momentarily within the park; unfortunately, it returned as we left the park and headed back to our ship.
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At BBC News the essay, “Regions and Territories: Hong Kong,” gives a great deal of essential facts, information, and links where a fairly complete picture of the area can be obtained.  The website begins with this paragraph: “Once home to fishermen and farmers, modern Hong Kong is a teeming, commercially-vibrant metropolis where Chinese and Western influences fuse.”

At Kwintissential the essay, “Hong Kong - Language, Culture, Customs and Etiquette,” covers facts and statistics, language, society and culture, as well as etiquette and customs.  This latter section includes meetings and greetings, gift giving, and dining and business etiquette.  Just look at some of the information you get at this website: “.The handshake is commonly used when greeting westerners.
          -The Hong Kong Chinese handshake is rather light.  
          -During the greeting, many Hong Kong Chinese lower their eyes as a sign of respect.
          -There is no need for you to emulate this gesture, although prolonged eye contact should be avoided during the greeting.
          -If you are at a large function, you may introduce yourself to other guests.
          -At smaller functions, it is polite to wait for your host or hostess to introduce you. ”
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Copyright April, 2011, by And Then Some Publishing, LLC.